The Book of Household Management
Chapter 70 : _Mode_.--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of the fire, see t

_Mode_.--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or rather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possible with a rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with b.u.t.ter, and season with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think, would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expedition is necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their being served very hot. Garnish with sc.r.a.ped horseradish, or slices of cuc.u.mber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.

_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1/2 lb. to each person; if the party consist entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb. will not be too much.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.

DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.--We have already stated (see No.

593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in mutton, stands first in excellence. It should be borne in mind, however, that each county has its particular season, and that the London and other large markets are always supplied by those counties whose meat, from local circ.u.mstances, is in the best condition at the time. Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which the Scots come (these being the princ.i.p.al oxen bred by the Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their place being taken by gra.s.s-fed oxen. A large quant.i.ty of most excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.

BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.

(Cold Meat Cookery).

612. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 dozen small b.u.t.ton mushrooms, 1 oz. of b.u.t.ter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.--Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt; put them in a stewpan with the b.u.t.ter, seasoning, and ketchup; stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire. In making the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is sufficient gravy.

_Time_.--1/4 hour. _Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.

BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

613. INGREDIENTS.--2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of b.u.t.ter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.--Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add the cloves, mace, b.u.t.ter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire.

_Time_.--5 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

BROILED BEEF-BONES.

614. INGREDIENTS.--The bones of ribs or sirloin; salt, pepper, and cayenne.

_Mode_.--Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is not too thick in any part; sprinkle them well with the above seasoning, and broil over a very clear fire. When nicely browned they are done; but do not allow them to blacken.

TO DRESS A BULLOCK'S HEART.

615. INGREDIENTS.--1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417.

_Mode_.--Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then wipe it well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the inside with a highly-seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by means of a needle and coa.r.s.e thread; tie the heart up in paper, and set it before a good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it will eat dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three minutes before serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with good gravy and red-currant jelly or melted b.u.t.ter. If the heart is very large, it will require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be baked as well as roasted.

_Time_.--Large heart, 2 hours. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Note_.--This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though not seen at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and economy.

BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery).

616. INGREDIENTS.--A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; b.u.t.ter, cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Fry the slices of beef gently in a little b.u.t.ter, taking care not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green savoys.

They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and placed, till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with b.u.t.ter, a sliced onion, and seasoning of pepper and salt. When the onion is done, it is ready to serve.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COLLARED BEEF.]

COLLARED BEEF.

617. INGREDIENTS.--7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef, 2 oz. of coa.r.s.e sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz, of saltpetre, 1 large handful of parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded allspice; salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.--Choose fine tender beef, but not too fat; lay it in a dish; rub in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it, remove all the gristle and the coa.r.s.e skin of the inside part, and sprinkle it thickly with parsley, herbs, spice, and seasoning in the above proportion, taking care that the former are finely minced, and the latter well pounded. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible, in the same shape as shown in the engraving; bind it firmly with broad tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it remain until cold. This dish is a very nice addition to the breakfast-table.

_Time_.--6 hours. _Average cost_, for this quant.i.ty, 4s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and regularly rubbed and turned every day.

BEEF-COLLOPS.

618. INGREDIENTS.--2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1/4 lb. of b.u.t.ter, 1 pint of gravy (water may be subst.i.tuted for this), salt and pepper to taste, 1 shalot finely minced, 1/2 pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers.

_Mode_.--Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3 inches long; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with flour. Put them in a frying-pan with the b.u.t.ter, and let them fry for about 3 minutes; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over them the gravy.

Add a piece of b.u.t.ter, kneaded with a little flour, put in the seasoning and all the other ingredients, and let the whole simmer, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered dish.

_Time_.--10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.