The Book of Household Management
Chapter 198 : TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE.1596. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1-1/2 l

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE.

1596. INGREDIENTS.--To every lb. of fruit allow 1-1/2 lb. of good loaf sugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice.

_Mode_.--Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort and of a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a dish, and sprinkle over them half the quant.i.ty of sugar, which must be finely pounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be equally distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let it remain for 1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as for red-currant jelly No. 1533; boil it with the remainder of the sugar until it forms a thin syrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and sugar, until the whole is sufficiently jellied. Great care must be taken not to stir the fruit roughly, as it should be preserved as whole as possible. Strawberries prepared in this manner are very good served in gla.s.ses and mixed with thin cream.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the syrup.

_Seasonable_ in June and July.

TO MAKE EVERTON TOFFEE.

1597. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of water, 1/4 lb. of b.u.t.ter, 6 drops of essence of lemon.

_Mode_.--Put the water and sugar into a bra.s.s pan, and beat the b.u.t.ter to a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the b.u.t.ter, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is poured on to a b.u.t.tered dish; and just before the toffee is done, add the essence of lemon. b.u.t.ter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, and when cool, it will easily separate from the dish. b.u.t.ter-Scotch, an excellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white sugar, omitting the water, and flavoured with 1/2 oz. of powdered ginger. It is made in the same manner as toffee.

_Time_.--18 to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make a lb. of toffee.

DESSERT DISHES.

[Ill.u.s.tration: DISH OF NUTS.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.]

1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our ill.u.s.trations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit can be arranged and shown to better advantage on these tall high dishes than on the short flat ones. All the dishes are now usually placed down the centre of the table, dried and fresh fruit alternately, the former being arranged on small round or oval gla.s.s plates, and the latter on the dishes with stems. The fruit should always be gathered on the same day that it is required for table, and should be tastefully arranged on the dishes, with leaves between and round it. By purchasing fruits that are in season, a dessert can be supplied at a very moderate cost. These, with a few fancy biscuits, crystallized fruit, bon-bons, &c., are sufficient for an ordinary dessert. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, dried and foreign fruits, compotes, baked pears, stewed Normandy pippins, &c. &c., must supply its place, with the addition of preserves, bon-bons, cakes, biscuits, &c. At fas.h.i.+onable tables, forced fruit is served growing in pots, these pots being hidden in more ornamental ones, and arranged with the other dishes.--(See coloured plate W1.) A few vases of fresh flowers, tastefully arranged, add very much to the appearance of the dessert; and, when these are not obtainable, a few paper ones, mixed with green leaves, answer very well as a subst.i.tute.

In decorating a table, whether for luncheon, dessert, or supper, a vase or two of flowers should never be forgotten, as they add so much to the elegance of the _tout ensemble_. In summer and autumn, ladies residing in the country can always manage to have a few freshly-gathered flowers on their tables, and should never be without this inexpensive luxury. On the continent, vases or epergnes filled with flowers are invariably placed down the centre of the dinner-table at regular distances. Ices for dessert are usually moulded: when this is not the case, they are handed round in gla.s.ses with wafers to accompany them. Preserved ginger is frequently handed round after ices, to prepare the palate for the delicious dessert wines. A basin or gla.s.s of finely-pounded lump sugar must never be omitted at a dessert, as also a gla.s.s jug of fresh cold water (iced, if possible), and two goblets by its side. Grape-scissors, a melon-knife and fork, and nutcrackers, should always be put on table, if there are dishes of fruit requiring them. Zests are sometimes served at the close of the dessert; such as anchovy toasts or biscuits. The French often serve plain or grated cheese with a dessert of fresh or dried fruit. At some tables, finger-gla.s.ses are placed at the right of each person, nearly half filled with cold spring water, and in winter with tepid water. These precede the dessert. At other tables, a gla.s.s or vase is simply handed round, filled with perfumed water, into which each guest dips the corner of his napkin, and, when needful, refreshes his lips and the tips of his fingers.

[Ill.u.s.tration: BOX OF CHOCOLATE.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: DISH OF APPLES.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: ALMONDS AND RAISINS.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: DISH OF STRAWBERRIES.]

After the dishes are placed, and every one is provided with plates, gla.s.ses, spoons, &c., the wine should be put at each end of the table, cooled or otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the wine may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host.

DISH OF NUTS.

1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the dish, as shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the edge. Filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk on them; and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and then--with a dry one, to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the sh.e.l.ls frequently have.

_Seasonable_.--Filberts from September to March, good; may be had after that time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from September to January.

HAZEL NUT AND FILBERT.--The common Hazel is the wild, and the Filbert the cultivated state of the same tree. The hazel is found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in dingles and ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and mountainous parts of the country. It was formerly one of the most abundant of those trees which are indigenous in this island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps its nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts imported are a superior kind, but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and the white, and the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common hazel, which have been produced, partly by the superiority of soil and climate, and partly by culture. They were originally brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found their way to Holland, and from that country to England. It is supposed that, within a few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more filberts grown than in all England besides; and it is from that place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is longer than the common nut, though of the same thickness, and has a larger kernel. The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the dessert than common nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from oil, and disagree with few persons.

WALNUTS.--The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and China, but was introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe kernel is brought to the dessert on account of its agreeable flavour; and the fruit is also much used in the green state, but before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts are employed in tarts and other dishes. The Walnut abounds in oil which is expressed and which, being of a highly drying nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting.

This, on the continent, is sometimes used as a subst.i.tute for olive-oil in cooking, but is very apt to turn rancid. It is also manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse matter after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry or other domestic animals. In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor people under the name of _pain amer._

BOX OF FRENCH PLUMS.

1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it may be placed on the table; if small, on a gla.s.s dish; if large, without one, French plums may also be arranged on a gla.s.s plate, and garnished with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect. All fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the table or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course, be left to individual taste.

_Seasonable_.--May be purchased all the year; but are in greater perfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, as fresh fruit cannot be obtained.

DISH OF MIXED FRUIT.

1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A high raised appearance should be given to the fruit, which is done in the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish, and, in this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost; round the tumbler put a thick layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches, and such fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of moss underneath, so much fruit is not required, besides giving a better shape to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a portion of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in a neglige kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish. In arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well.

_Seasonable_.--Suitable for a dessert in September or October.

GRAPES.--France produces about a thousand varieties of the grape, which is cultivated more extensively in that country than in any other. Hygienists agree in p.r.o.nouncing grapes as among the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities: it is nouris.h.i.+ng and fattening, and its prolonged use has often overcome the most obstinate cases of constipation. The skins and pips of grapes should not be eaten.

BOX OF CHOCOLATE.

1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a gla.s.s plate or dish.

_Seasonable_.--May be purchased at any time.

DISH OF APPLES.

1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and arranged on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves between each layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom layer, with the bright-coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of the laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for garnis.h.i.+ng dessert dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same manner; they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before being sent to table.

DISH OF MIXED SUMMER FRUIT.

1604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, and strawberries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves between each layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should be arranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely one with the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the bottom, then one of red raspberries; over that a layer of white currants, and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August.

ALMONDS AND RAISINS.

1605. These are usually served on gla.s.s dishes, the fruit piled high in the centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch the almonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them boiling water, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may then be easily removed. Figs, dates, French plums, &c., are all served on small gla.s.s plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.

DATES.--Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from Barbary and Egypt, and, when in good condition, they are much esteemed. An inferior kind has lately become common, which are dried hard, and have little or no flavour. They should be chosen large, softish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on the outside, with a whitish membrane between the fruit and the stone.